Garment press



Aug. 31,1926. 1,597,707

w. E. ANDREE.

GARMENT PRESS Filed March 22, 1915 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 w. E. ANDRE'IE GARMENT PRESS Aug. 9

Aug. 31,1926. k I M 1,597,707

7 w. E. ANDREE GARMENT PRESS Filed March 22, 91 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Z7 fizz/5221272.

Patented na a1, 192e,-

WILLIAM E. ANDREE, OF CHICAGO, ILLINQIS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE MWEGNMENTS,

T METROPOLITAN TRUST COMPANY, TRUSTEE, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A COR- JPORATION 0F NEW YORK.

Application filed March 22, 1916. Serial No. 85,908.

This invention generally speaking relates to garment presses and particularly to that class of such devices employing co-operating bucks having co-operating projections and recesses for forming the curves or bulges in coat linings and garments.

More specificallyvthe invention relates to a press wherein a lower heated buck is provided with a plate having minute openings therein for the passage of steam and provided with bulges or projections conforming to certain curvesor configuration of coat linings or garments together with another heated buck or chest having an ironing face provided with recesses for receiving the bulges or projections of the lower buck, there being means for bringing the parts together upon the article with great pressure. It is also a feature of the invention to have the bulges or projections arranged in the proper relation to an edge of the buck and to let this edge form a gauge fora seam gline of a garment or lining so that the bulges or projections formed will have the proper relation with respect to a seam or similar line of the garment or lining.

The invention may be further briefly summarized as consistin in the construction and combination 0 parts hereinafter set forthin the following drawings, description an claim. I

Referring to the drawings Figure 1 is an end view of the machine with. the parts.

shown in elevation; Figure 2.is a detailed view of a portion of the steam distributing plate arranged upon the lower buck, body;

Figure 3 isa sectional view of a portion of this same late; Figure 4: is a front elevation of the mac ine showing the lower buck and its parts in section; Figure 5 is an enlarged detailed view in section showing the steam valve mechanism; Figure 6 is a top plan view of the press with a portion of the alpper buck broken away; Figure 6 is a detail of a pivotalconnection between an actuating rod and a pressing member lever arm; Figure 7 is a bottom plan view of the upper buck; Figure '8 is a longitudinal sectional view of the upper buck; Figure 9 is a sectional view upon the line 99 of-Figure 8; Figure 10 is a side elevation ofthe end of rearwardly extending web 2 and an up wardly extending arm 3 provided at its upper end with a bearing portion 4: for a purpose to be described, the bearing 4 being arranged above the lower buck as will appear. The lower buck structure is mounted upon the upper end of the standard 1 and it comprises a hollow goose neck portion 5 secured by suitable bolts 6 to the standard and having integral therewith a hollow buck adapted to be supplied with steam from any suitable source. The upper portion of this lower buck body is substantially flat and is provided with longitudinally extending steam channels 9 and 10 arranged on either -body 7 having a steam chamber 8 therein side of a steam valve boss 11, which is diupper part of the standard as shown in Figure 1. Suitable ports 13 and 14 connect the channels 9 and 10 w h an opening 15' in the boss 11. The boss 11 at the opening 15 is arranged to receive a valve plug 16;

which is threaded into the opening and is adapted to seat with a gasket 17 upon a .rectly above a recess 12 in-the side of the suitable shoulder in the lower buck body. Suitable ports 18 establish communication between the ports 13 and 14 and a central opening 19 in the valve plug. The plug" 16- has a valve seat at thelower end of the opening 19. Integral with this plug isa suitable extension 20 having lateral openings 21 therein adapted to supply steam from the opening in the goose neck to the port 19.

Threaded into this extension 20 is a valve stem guide 22 guiding the valve stem 23 which is provided at its upper end with a valve 24 co-operating with the seat at the lower end of the opening 19 This Valve stem 23 is provided with a head 25 adapted to receivethe operating head 26 of an operating rod 27 This rod passes down through a suitable connection 28 and tube 29 and a stufing' box structure 30, and is thence connected toan operating rod structure 31 of any preferred type which may be connected to the steam treadle 32.

It will be seen from the foregoing con struction that by lowering the valve 24.

steam will be supplied to the channels 9 and 10. I

Engaging the upper surface of the lower buck body is a steam distributing plate 33, 1 and it is provided on its undersurface with a plurality of laterally extending channels 34 which extend at the center over the channels 9 and 10 so that steam from these channels will pass into these lateral channels of the plate. Extending from these lateral channels 34 are short spur channels 35 and each of these Short spur channels is adapted to convey steam to a perforation 36 extending upward through the plate. The lateral channels on each side of the boss 11 are supplied by transverse channels 37 as shown in igure 2. It is obvious that as the steam is supplied by the valve mechanism to the channels 9 and 10, it will pass laterally to the channels 34 and thence to the spurs arlld upward through the perforations in the p ate.

In order to furnish access to the valve mechanism without removing the plate 33, a 30 suitable circular plate 38, as shown in Figures 5 and 12, is provided andit is held in place by screws 39.

The lower buck is formed so that a portion of its front edge is straight as at 40 with a 35 gradual curve outward as shown at 41, and the line formed by this edge corresponds to the side seam of a coat lining or a coat. In 'order to form the bust and shoulder curve inthe linin or in the coat a bust form 42 is secured to the upper face of the plate 33 in a any suitable manner as by screws 43, and this form is preferabl hollow, as shown in Figure 12, and is provlded with perforations 44, which permit steam to escape through it, 45 the steam being supplied through perforations in the plate 33. (lo-operating with this bust form 42 is a shoulder cap form- 45 which is in the nature of an elongated half round tapered piece, hollow and secured to the upper face of the plate 33, in proper relationship with respect to the form 42 and having a solid or closed end 46 adapted to prevent the escape of steam at this point. Th1s member in like manner is provided with perforations 47 for the passage of steam to the article. The edge of this shoulder cap form is coincident with the edge curve 41 at the edge of the board, and it together with the bust form are so located that they will form the curve of the shoulder in'proper relation ship with respect to the bust form and seam line 'of the lining or coat.

The form 42 is preferably provided with an opening 48 directly above'the cap 38 and this opening may be closed by a suitable plate 49. It is preferable to provide a cylindrical extension 50 leading down to the plate with acap 38, as shown in Figure 12.

The upper buck, its support and operating mechanism will now be described.

Mounted in thebearing 4 is a. shaft 51 extending beyondboth ends of the bearing and engaging in the bearings 52 formed in side arms 53 of an upper buck operating lever structure. This lever structure is preferably cast and is formed with a tail portion '54 adapted to receive a counterweight 55 sufficient to counteract the Weight of the buck and the other parts forward of the pivot, as will appear. Each of the arms 53 is provided with a collar portion 56 and these collar portions receive a rod 57 which is extended beyond each of the collar portions and engages in eyes 58'formed on the upper surface of the upper buck 59. Each of the collar portions 56 is fastened to the bar 57 by a suitable set screw 60. The rod 57 is extended beyond each of the eyes 58 and each end receives an equalizing member 61, each of which is fastened to the rod by a suitable set screw 62. Each of these e ualizing members is provided with a pair 0 sockets 63 for receiving coil springs 64, the tension of which may be adjusted by suitable adjusting screws 65. 7 Each of these equalizing members is provided with an outward extension 66 to which a handle 67 is secured.

The face 68 of the upper buck conforms to the shape of the lower buck and the edge 69 thereof is arranged to follow the contour of the line 40 and the curved portion 41 of the lower buck. The face of this buck is recessed or provided with a cavity 70 corresponding .1n size and shape to the bust form 42 and with a cavity 71 conforming to'the shoulder cap form 45. It will be seen by this arrangement that the two bucks will cooperate to press the proper shape into coat linings and the like.

The upper buck is manipulated by suitable mechanism comprising a link 72 piv oted to a pin 73 secured in the base and to a pin 74 pivoted in a head 75 threaded onto a rod 76 which is provided with a collar 77. The end of the rod is bored out and threaded and receives the threaded end of a rod 78 extending through a sleeve 79, provided with lateral extensions 80, which receive pins 81, mounted in suitable bosses 82 formed on the side arms 53 of the upper buck lever structure. The upper end of the sleeve is provided with a flange 83 having suitable notches 84 to receive a dog 85 pivotally mounted upon a pin 86 carried by a head 87 rigidly secured to the rod 78. Av coil spring 88 is arranged between the collar 77 and the sleeve 79 and the tension of the spring may be varied by turning the rod 78.

coil spring 89 is secured to a hook 90 attached to the upper buck lever structure and 130 to a pin 91 secured to the frame for causing the upper buck to move upward into normal position. Pivoted to the pin 74 are a pair of links 92, one being shown in the drawings, and these links are in turn pivoted to one arm of a lever 93 in turn pivoted upon a pin 94 secured in the main standard 1. The other arm 95 of this lever is pivotally connected to the head 96 mounted upon a rod 97 having at its lower end a head 98 ivotally connected to a treadle 99 pivote upon a pin 91. A kick-off treadle 100 is pivoted in the frame and is arranged to engage under the treadle 99 and moves the same upward sufiiciently to release it.

In order to limit the straightening of the toggle arms between the lever 53 and the pivot 73 the link 7 2 is pivotally connected to a c'levis 101 in turn connected to a rod 102 passing loosely through a block 10.3 mounted between the links 92. The end of this rod 102 carries a rubber bumper 104 arranged in a cap 105 threaded onto the end of the rod 102. The toggles are moved slightly past the center in order to hold the press closed and this rubber bumper is set so as to permit this movement.

In operation the lining or garment is placed in proper position upon the lower buck' with the side seam for instance in proper relation to the gauge edge of the lower buck and with the bulges or forms in proper position with respect to the coat lining or garment. The operator then depresses the treadle 99 causing the lever 93 The front edge'of the lower buck may be utilized as a gauge for locating the bust forms with respect to the garment or lining and in utilizing this edge for this purpose a seam of the garment such as the side seam may-be arranged coincident with the edge of the lower buck or it may be positioned pro erly with respect to this edge.

aving described my invention, I claim In a garment press, a frame, a lower buck mounted thereon and havinga continuous foraminous ironing surface, a hollow foraminous form supported thereon and detachably secured thereto, means for delivering steam through the foraminous surface of the buck and thereby through the forami- -nous surface of the form, an upper buck having an ironing surface conforming to the ironing surface of the lower buck and the form thereon, and means for producing relative pressing movement of said bucks.

In testimony whereof I aifix my signature.

WILLIAM E. ANDREE. 

